When shopping for jewellery, many people are drawn to the beauty and allure of gems, often unaware of the ethical implications behind their purchase. The gemstone industry has a complex history, with some gems linked to human rights abuses, environmental damage, and the financing of violent conflicts. As consumers become more mindful of the impact of their choices, conflict-free gems have emerged as a vital alternative, allowing individuals to enjoy stunning jewellery while ensuring their purchases support ethical and sustainable practices.
Conflict-free gems are precious stones that are ethically sourced and certified to ensure they have not been involved in financing armed conflict, human rights abuses, or environmental devastation. These gems are mined and sold in a manner that does not support violence or exploitation, often adhering to international standards and certification processes such as the Kimberley Process.
The term conflict-free emerged to describe gems that are mined and traded in ways that do not fuel wars or contribute to human suffering. In the past, diamonds and other gems mined in war zones were often used to fund violent conflict, particularly in countries like Angola, Sierra Leone, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. These “blood diamonds” or “conflict diamonds” gained global attention due to the severe humanitarian crises they supported.
Not fund armed conflict
Profits from the sale of these gems do not support rebel groups or corrupt regimes.
Be traceable to an ethical source
Supply chains are carefully monitored to ensure transparency, often requiring certification.
Uphold labor and environmental standards
Conflict-free gems are typically mined under fair labor practices and with minimal environmental impact.
Human Rights Protection
In conflict zones, the mining and trade of gems often come at a high human cost, including forced labor, child labor, and violence. By supporting conflict-free gems, consumers can contribute to reducing these abuses and promoting safer working conditions in mining communities.
Environmental Responsibility
Traditional mining practices, especially in conflict areas, can devastate local ecosystems through deforestation, water pollution, and soil degradation. Conflict-free gems often come from companies or regions that prioritize environmentally sustainable practices, helping to minimize harm to the planet.
Economic Support for Ethical Communities
Buying conflict-free gems promotes fairer trade practices, supporting mining communities that operate under ethical conditions. This can improve livelihoods, foster economic development, and promote peace in historically unstable regions.
Consumer Awareness and Ethical Choices
With growing awareness of the ethical implications behind the products we buy, consumers increasingly want to ensure that their purchases align with their values. Conflict-free gems allow individuals to enjoy luxury items like diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds without supporting harmful practices.
Supporting conflict-free gems is a way for consumers to contribute to a more ethical, sustainable, and peaceful gemstone industry.
Source: The Kimberly Process
1. Conflict-Free Diamonds
These are diamonds sourced from regions and through processes that do not finance armed conflicts or human rights abuses. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) is a global initiative established to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the mainstream market by verifying that rough diamonds are sourced responsibly. However, while the Kimberley Process has significantly reduced the trade of conflict diamonds, it doesn’t guarantee fully ethical practices.
Sources:
John Atencio
International Gem Society
A Canadamark Diamond is a well-known conflict-free option. These diamonds come with a unique serial number that traces their origin back to mines in Canada, where stringent labor and environmental standards are maintained. Source: International Gem Society
2. Ethical Diamonds
Ethical diamonds go beyond the conflict-free standard, ensuring that both environmental sustainability and fair labor practices are adhered to throughout the supply chain. They are often mined under conditions that respect human rights, avoid child labor, and minimize environmental impact.
Source: unsustainable
Brands like Tiffany & Co. and De Beers are known for their commitment to ethical diamond sourcing, often using blockchain technology to ensure full transparency of their diamonds’ journey from mine to market.
Source: Tiffany & Co. Sustainability
3. Recycled Metals
Recycled metals, such as gold or silver, are sourced from existing products like jewellery or electronics and refined for reuse. This reduces the environmental impact and avoids the need for new mining operations, which are often resource-intensive and harmful to ecosystems.
Using recycled gold in jewellery manufacturing can prevent further environmental degradation caused by traditional gold mining, which is notorious for producing large amounts of waste and toxic chemicals.
Source: unsustainable
Despite international efforts to reduce the flow of conflict diamonds, gems, and unethically mined metals, several regions around the world continue to struggle with these issues. These regions are plagued by armed conflicts, human rights violations, and environmental degradation driven by the mining of precious resources.
Sierra Leone has long been associated with “blood diamonds” or “conflict diamonds,” which were used to fund rebel groups during the brutal civil war of the 1990s. Even after the end of the war, issues surrounding illegal diamond mining persist in the region. Diamonds mined in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the broader West African region are often connected to exploitative labor practices, child labor, and environmental damage. The Kimberley Process was established to help prevent these conflict diamonds from entering the global market, but its effectiveness has been questioned due to issues with enforcement.
Sources:
International Gem Society
John Atencio
The Democratic Republic of Congo is one of the most mineral-rich countries in the world, with large deposits of diamonds, gold, coltan, and cobalt. Unfortunately, these resources have fueled decades of violent conflict, particularly in the eastern regions of the country. Armed groups frequently control mining operations, using forced labor, and selling these conflict minerals to fund their military activities. The extraction of coltan (used in electronics) and gold from this region also contributes to severe environmental destruction, including deforestation and water pollution.
Sources:
John Atencio
unsustainable
Angola, another significant diamond producer, has faced similar issues with conflict diamonds. During its civil war from 1975 to 2002, the National Union for the Total Independence of Angola (UNITA) used diamond sales to finance its military operations. While the conflict has ended, illegal diamond mining and smuggling continue to contribute to human rights abuses, poor labor conditions, and corruption. The Kimberley Process has attempted to curtail these issues, but enforcement is still a challenge.
Sources:
Organized Crime Index: Angola
All Africa: Angola: More Than 3,000 Foreign Illegal Miners Repatriated By Operation Extension
Myanmar is the world’s largest source of high-quality rubies and jade, but the industry is rife with human rights abuses, including forced labor, dangerous working conditions, and child labor. Additionally, the revenues from gemstone mining in Myanmar have long been linked to the financing of military operations and ethnic conflicts. The environmental impact of jade and ruby mining, particularly in regions like Hpakant in Kachin State, includes deforestation and dangerous landslides that claim hundreds of lives.
Source: Mongabay: Analysis: Myanmar’s gemstone riches bring poverty and environmental destruction
Zimbabwe’s Marange diamond fields have been the site of significant controversy. In the mid-2000s, diamonds from Marange were associated with human rights abuses, including forced labor, torture, and extrajudicial killings by government security forces. Although Zimbabwe participates in the Kimberley Process, concerns over transparency and ongoing violence linked to diamond mining remain a significant issue.
Source: Fair Planet – The Unending Curse Of Zimbabwe’s Marange Diamonds
Gold mining in South America, particularly in countries like Peru, Colombia, and Venezuela, is linked to illegal operations and environmental destruction. In many cases, these illegal gold mines are controlled by criminal organizations and paramilitary groups that exploit workers, engage in human trafficking, and pollute local rivers with mercury. The demand for gold, especially in the electronics and jewelry industries, continues to drive these unsustainable practices.
Source: CSIS – The Price of Gold: The Impacts of Illegal Mining on Indigenous Communities in Venezuela and Brazil
These regions underscore the ongoing challenges in eradicating conflict minerals from global supply chains. While frameworks like the Kimberley Process and efforts toward ethical sourcing are steps in the right direction, many gaps remain, making it crucial for consumers to demand greater transparency and accountability in the industry.
4. Lab-Grown Diamonds
These diamonds are created in a laboratory setting and have the same chemical, physical, and optical properties as mined diamonds. They are a sustainable alternative, as they avoid the environmental and ethical issues associated with mining while being typically less expensive.
Source: International Gem Society
Lightbox Jewelry, owned by De Beers, specializes in lab-grown diamonds as a conflict-free and eco-friendly alternative to mined stones.
Sources:
De Beers
De Beers Plc Modern Slavery Act Statement
5. Fairmined Gold
Fairmined certification guarantees that gold is sourced from small-scale mining organisations that meet rigorous standards for environmental protection, labor rights, and fair wages. It also ensures the reduction of hazardous practices like the use of mercury in mining.
Source: Chopard Responsible Sourcing
Fairmined gold is increasingly being used in ethical jewelry collections by brands like Chopard, which integrates it into their high-end designs as part of their commitment to responsible sourcing.
6. Blockchain Diamonds
Blockchain technology is now used in the diamond industry to track the journey of a diamond from the mine to the final consumer. This provides transparency and ensures the diamond has been sourced ethically, with a verified chain of custody that cannot be altered
Source: International Gem Society
Companies like Everledger are pioneering blockchain technology for diamond tracking, offering consumers peace of mind that their diamond is truly conflict-free.
Source: Everledger Diamond Industry Solutions
7. Artisanal Mining
This refers to small-scale, independent mining operations that often employ local labor. While artisanal mining can be a source of income for many impoverished communities, it is frequently criticized for unsafe working conditions, child labor, and environmental damage. Some initiatives aim to improve conditions in artisanal mining to ensure it can be a sustainable livelihood.
Source: John Atencio
International Gem Society
The Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) works to improve living conditions for artisanal miners and advocates for more sustainable practices in artisanal diamond mining.
Source: The Diamond Development Initiative
What Are Blood Diamonds?
Blood diamonds, also known as conflict diamonds, refer to diamonds mined in war zones and sold to finance armed conflict, insurgencies, or warlord activities. These diamonds often come from regions with unstable governments where rebel groups use forced labor, including child labor, to extract the gems under dangerous and exploitative conditions. The profits from these diamonds fuel violence, human rights abuses, and even civil wars, particularly in African countries like Sierra Leone, Angola, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
The term blood diamond became well-known in the 1990s, during the civil wars in Sierra Leone and Angola, where rebel groups funded their operations by smuggling diamonds into the global market. These diamonds made their way into legitimate supply chains, leading to widespread concern among consumers and governments.
What Are Conflict-Free Diamonds?
Conflict-free diamonds are those that have been sourced from areas free from armed conflict and are certified as such through a process like the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS). Introduced in 2003, the Kimberley Process was developed to prevent the flow of conflict diamonds into the global diamond trade by ensuring that diamonds are not used to finance rebel movements or human rights abuses.
Conflict-free diamonds:
Is There a Difference?
Technically, blood diamonds and conflict diamonds refer to the same concept—diamonds used to finance wars and violence. The key difference lies in conflict-free diamonds, which are specifically certified to have no connection to such violence. The Kimberley Process has significantly reduced the trade of blood diamonds, but it’s important to note that while a diamond may be “conflict-free” under the Kimberley Process, it does not guarantee that the diamond was mined under ethical conditions. Issues such as child labor, poor working conditions, and environmental degradation can still occur even in mines certified as conflict-free.
Limitations of the Kimberley Process
While the Kimberley Process has helped reduce the number of conflict diamonds entering the market, it has its limitations:
Consumers looking for truly ethical diamonds may need to look for additional certifications, such as Fairmined or blockchain-traced diamonds, which offer more comprehensive assurance of ethical practices.
In summary, blood diamonds fuel conflict and violence, while conflict-free diamonds are certified to ensure they are not contributing to these issues. However, conflict-free doesn’t always mean ethical, so further due diligence may be required to ensure a diamond is both conflict-free and ethically sourced.
As consumers become more aware of the ethical and environmental concerns in the jewellery industry, there are several steps you can take to ensure that your purchases are conflict-free and aligned with sustainable values.
When buying diamonds or gemstones, look for reputable certifications that verify the ethical sourcing of the stones. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) ensures that rough diamonds do not originate from conflict zones. However, it’s important to note that the Kimberley Process only guarantees that the diamond is conflict-free, not necessarily ethically sourced. Some additional certifications include:
Lab-grown diamonds are an excellent conflict-free alternative to mined diamonds. They have the same physical and chemical properties as natural diamonds but are created in controlled environments, eliminating the need for mining. Brands like Lightbox Jewelry and Brilliant Earth offer lab-grown diamonds that are both sustainable and affordable.
Another sustainable option is to buy recycled metals or vintage jewellery. Recycled gold, silver, and gemstones reduce the demand for new mining and help mitigate the environmental impacts associated with the extraction of precious materials. Vintage jewellery stores or estate sales often offer unique, high-quality pieces that promote circular fashion.
Before purchasing jewellery, research the brand’s sourcing policies. Look for companies that are transparent about their supply chains and committed to ethical practices. Many brands now offer information about where their gemstones and metals are sourced, ensuring they come from conflict-free regions. Brands like Tiffany & Co., Brilliant Earth, and Monica Vinader have strong commitments to responsible sourcing.
Some companies are using blockchain technology to trace the journey of diamonds from mine to market. This technology allows consumers to track the origin and entire journey of their diamond, ensuring that it has been sourced ethically. Everledger is a pioneer in this space, offering blockchain-verified diamonds for consumers who want transparency.
In addition to diamonds, you can opt for other ethically sourced gemstones. Some colored gemstones come from regions with better labor practices and environmental standards. Look for Fair Trade certified gemstones or stones from regions known for responsible mining, like Montana sapphires or Canadian amethyst.
By following these steps and supporting companies with responsible sourcing practices, you can make informed, ethical choices when purchasing jewellery, ensuring that your purchase does not contribute to conflict or environmental harm.
Standing against the tide of ever-changing mass-produced jewellery, Hatton Jewels promotes circular jewellery practices, where the boutique specialises in the acquisition, re-homing and restoration of pre-loved jewellery.
Circular jewelry is a more sustainable approach that’s gaining traction among eco-conscious consumers and responsible brands alike.
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