The (Almost) Lost Art of Tailored Clothing

In a world where fast fashion dominates, the art of tailored clothing stands as a quiet reminder of skill and care.

Lost art of tailored clothing with a tape measure and chalk with a hand
Lost art of tailored clothing with a tape measure and chalk with a hand.
Image Credit Naomi Little

Once a common feature in wardrobes, tailored clothing is now a rare find in a sea of mass-produced garments. Yet, its enduring appeal lies in the precision, artistry, and individuality it offers. From its historical roots in fashion capitals to its role in modern sustainable practices, tailored clothing remains a timeless expression of elegance, quality, and identity.

The Craft Behind Tailored Clothing

Tailoring is an art of meticulous detail, where each stitch, cut, and seam is crafted with purpose and expert artistry. Tailored garments, unlike their mass-manufactured counterparts, are designed to fit the body perfectly, enhancing not only one’s comfort but also the way they move and present themselves. The journey begins with careful measurements, followed by the thoughtful selection of fabrics, patterns, and design elements tailored to the wearer’s tastes and lifestyle. Each piece is created by skilled hands, blending tradition with innovation.

These artisans draw upon generations of expertise, ensuring that every jacket, suit, or dress is more than a garment—it’s a piece of wearable artistry. Tailored clothing goes beyond fashion; it embodies the dedication and artistry involved in transforming fabric into a work of elegance.

Embroidery: The Art of Personalisation

One of the most refined elements of tailored clothing is the opportunity for embroidery. Historically, embroidery signified status or allegiance, but today it serves as a mark of individuality and craftsmanship. From subtle initials on a cuff to elaborate designs woven into a jacket lining, embroidery adds a personal touch to each bespoke garment.

In the world of tailoring, embroidery is often applied with traditional techniques, ensuring it complements the garment’s design in both form and substance. These intricate details, whether a monogram or a decorative flourish, elevate tailored clothing from mere attire to an expression of personal style and artistry.

The Historical Significance of Tailored Clothing in London and the UK at large

Tailored clothing has deep roots in British history, with London emerging as a centre of bespoke craftsmanship as early as the 16th century. The establishment of Savile Row in the 18th century cemented the city’s reputation as a global leader in tailored fashion. Known as the birthplace of the modern suit, Savile Row became synonymous with precision and sophistication, attracting royalty, politicians, and discerning clients from around the world.

British tailoring, particularly on Savile Row, became more than a trade; it was a symbol of cultural refinement. The structured, flawless garments produced by London’s master tailors defined elegance and set the standard for tailored clothing internationally. This legacy persists, with many of the original houses still in operation today, continuing to uphold the highest standards of craftsmanship and tailoring.

Sustainability and Durability: Tailored Clothing Made to Last

In contrast to the fleeting nature of fast fashion, tailored clothing offers a sustainable and enduring alternative. Every piece is designed with longevity in mind, from the choice of fabric to the construction techniques used. Increasingly, tailors are selecting sustainable, high-quality materials such as organic wool, linen, and cotton, which not only minimise environmental impact but also enhance the garment’s durability.

Tailored garments are designed to last, both in wear and in style. Free from the dictates of fast-changing trends, these pieces retain their relevance over the years, often becoming wardrobe staples that are worn and cherished for decades. Furthermore, many tailors offer repair and alteration services, extending the life of each garment and reinforcing the concept of slow fashion. By investing in tailored clothing made from sustainable materials, one embraces a timeless style while also supporting a more ethical and environmentally conscious approach to fashion.

Final Thoughts

Tailored clothing, though often overshadowed by the ease and availability of fast fashion, retains its place as a symbol of quality, craftsmanship, and individuality. From the bespoke suits of Savile Row to the intricacies of personalised embroidery, tailored garments tell a story that mass-produced clothing cannot. Their durability and sustainable construction make them a worthy investment, both for the individual and for the environment. The art of tailoring, far from being lost, continues to offer a timeless and elegant alternative to the fleeting trends of modern fashion.

Two hands above some red threads with an earthy watercolour background, tailored clothing
Two hands above some red threads with an earthy watercolour background, tailored clothing.
Image Credit Naomi Little

Glossary of Terms for Tailored Clothing

Extended glossary of tailored clothing terms for fashion, highlighting the artistry and technical details a designer might consider when creating or tailoring garments.

Silhouettes and Cuts

A-line
A flattering dress or skirt shape that is narrow at the waist and flares out gently to the hem, forming an “A” shape. Popular for both casual and formal attire.

Empire Waist
A dress or blouse where the waistline is raised to just under the bust, creating a high-waisted, elongated look. This silhouette was popular in the Regency era but remains timeless today.

Princess Cut
Seams that run vertically from the bust to the hem, creating a fitted and elongated shape, often used in dresses and coats to create a sleek silhouette​
Source: Jasper Littman

Fit-and-Flare
A style that is fitted through the bodice and flares out at the waist, often seen in dresses and skirts. It is similar to the A-line but with more pronounced volume below the waist.

Jackets and Coats

Bolero
A cropped, tailored jacket that sits above the waist, usually without a collar. Often used to complement formal or eveningwear​
Source: Queenly

Peplum Jacket
A tailored jacket with a flared panel or “skirt” at the waist, creating an hourglass figure. This style is very feminine and often used in both business and formal attire.

Trench Coat
A classic double-breasted coat with a belted waist and epaulets, originally designed for military use but now a timeless piece in women’s outerwear​
Source: Senszio

Dress and Skirt Styles

Pencil Skirt
A slim-fitting skirt that tapers from the waist to the knee, emphasising the natural curves of the body. This is a staple in professional wardrobes​
Source: Jasper Littman

Midi Dress/Skirt
A dress or skirt that falls below the knee and above the ankle, creating a modest yet elegant look.

Maxi Dress
A full-length dress that reaches the ankles, often used for casual, beach, or evening wear. Maxi dresses can be fitted or flowy, depending on the fabric and design.

Wrap Dress
A dress that wraps around the body and ties at the waist, creating a universally flattering V-neckline. Popularized by Diane von Fürstenberg in the 1970s
Source: Jasper Littman

Blouse and Top Details

Dolman Sleeve
A loose sleeve cut in one piece with the bodice, typically seen in relaxed-fit tops and dresses. It creates a wide, draped look under the arms.

Batwing Sleeve
Similar to the dolman sleeve but even more exaggerated, often used to add dramatic flair to blouses and dresses​
Source: Queenly

Bishop Sleeve
A long sleeve that is full and gathered at the wrist with a cuff, creating a voluminous, elegant shape.

Boat Neck
A wide neckline that runs horizontally across the collarbone, exposing the shoulders and neck. It’s a classic, elegant style often seen in dresses and tops
Source: Queenly

Tailoring Techniques

Darts
Folds sewn into the fabric to provide shape to a garment, typically at the bust, waist, or back. Darts allow for a fitted look without adding bulk​
Source: All Alterations

Princess Seams
Curved seams used to create a close fit, especially on dresses and jackets. These seams run from the shoulder or armhole down to the hem, accentuating the body’s shape​
Source: Bespoke Unit

PleatsF
olded fabric that adds volume or shape to a garment. Pleats can be box, knife, or accordion, and are often seen in skirts or dresses​
Source: Queenly

Garment Features

Placket
A strip of fabric, often where buttons or zippers are attached, used to strengthen or provide structure to the opening of a garment.

Bias Cut
A garment cut on the diagonal grain of the fabric, allowing it to drape more fluidly and contour to the body’s shape. Bias cuts are common in dresses made from lighter fabrics​
Source: Jasper Littman

Yoke
A fitted section across the shoulders or waist, used to add shape to blouses, shirts, or dresses. Yokes can be either front or back, adding structure without darts
Source: Jasper Littman

Fabric and Finishing Terms

Gabardine
A tightly woven fabric, traditionally made of wool, that is used for tailored suits and outerwear due to its durability​

Crepe
A fabric with a slightly crinkled texture, often used in dresses and blouses for its elegant drape.

Satin
A glossy, smooth fabric often used for evening gowns or luxury tailoring, due to its sleek finish​
Source: Bespoke Unit

Lining
The interior fabric of a garment, often silk or lightweight cotton, used to provide structure and comfort. Lined garments tend to drape better and wear longer​
Source: All Alterations

Skirt and Dress Details

Gore
Panels of fabric that are shaped to flare out at the hem, commonly used in skirts and dresses to create fullness​

Godet
A triangular piece of fabric inserted into a garment, often in skirts or dresses, to add flare or movement at the hem.

Ruching
A sewing technique where fabric is gathered along a seam to create decorative pleats. Often used in evening gowns to add texture and volume​

Fastenings and Closures

Invisible Zip
A concealed zip that doesn’t show on the exterior of the garment, often used in dresses and skirts for a seamless look​

Hook and Eye
A simple closure mechanism commonly found in the waistbands of skirts or trousers​

Frog Closure
An ornamental, braided closure used on jackets, especially in formal or traditional wear​

General Tailoring Terms

Bespoke
A fully custom-made garment, crafted to fit a client’s exact measurements. Often associated with Savile Row tailors in London​
Source: Senszio

Made-to-Measure
A garment made using a pre-existing pattern that is adjusted to the wearer’s measurements​

Canvas
A stiff layer inside jackets that helps maintain structure. Full canvas construction is the highest quality, while fused canvas (where the fabric is glued) is less durable​
Source: Jasper Littman

Men’s Tailoring Terms

Notch Lapel
The most common lapel style, where the lapel is cut with a notch where it meets the collar, often found on business suits​
Source: Bespoke Unit

Peak Lapel: A more formal lapel style that juts upwards, commonly seen on tuxedos and double-breasted suits​
Source: Bespoke Unit

Flat Front: Trousers without pleats, offering a cleaner, slimmer silhouette​
Source: Jasper Littman

Morning Coat: A formal coat with a single-breasted cut, often worn with tails for daytime events​
Source: Bespoke Unit

Women’s Tailoring Terms

A-line
A classic dress or skirt silhouette that is narrow at the top and gradually flares out, forming the shape of an “A”​
Source: All Alterations

Peplum: A flared section at the waist of a jacket or blouse, creating an accentuated hourglass shape​

Dolman Sleeve
A sleeve that is cut in one piece with the body of the garment, creating a loose, draped look​
Source: Queenly

Details for Both Men and Women

Darts
Small, sewn folds that shape the garment to the body’s contours​
Sources: Jasper Littman

Vents
Slits at the back of a jacket, allowing for easier movement and a more flattering fit​
Source: All Alterations

Cuff
The bottom fold of a sleeve or trouser leg, often adding formality to the garment​

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