Brooklyn Tweed: Fine Yarn and Cosy Patterns

NL: How do you approach sustainability in your yarn production and design processes?
JF: Sustainability in yarn production is about building strong, mutually supportive relationships with your partners and understanding their needs and capacities. Over the years, this collaborative approach has been essential for creating a process that consistently delivers quality. For long-term success, everyone involved must embrace a sustainable mindset to ensure the work remains viable over time.

In the design realm, sustainability for me means avoiding burnout and overwhelm. As a highly creative person, I thrive on the freedom to explore ideas, but my creativity can quickly diminish when I push myself to produce at a pace that doesn’t align with my natural process. Striking a balance between creative fulfillment and the demands of running a business—where your art also fuels your income—is a constant challenge. I think many professional creatives wrestle with this tension throughout their careers.

NL: Can you share more about your collaboration with sheep farmers, mills, and other partners in the supply chain?
JF: One of the greatest joys of this work has been building relationships with U.S. ranchers and farmers to source high-quality wool and cotton for our yarns. Many of the ranches we partner with are multi-generational operations, where the work represents not just a livelihood but a deeply rooted family legacy.

Our focus on breed-specific wool has led us to collaborate directly with fiber growers, paying a premium for their wool before it enters the broader “wool pool,” where different breeds and qualities are mixed and directed into fast fashion or industrial uses. This unique partnership incentivizes greater attention to fiber quality and fosters a deeper understanding of its nuances. When growers know their flocks are valued for their distinctive characteristics, it creates a meaningful connection that elevates both the craft and the final product.

NL: What role does tradition play in your design ethos, and how do you balance it with innovation?
JF: I find endless inspiration in history and tradition. There’s so much to learn by studying what has come before us, and understanding tradition is key to knowing how to break the rules or create something entirely new and innovative. My work often explores the intersection of old and new, blending the traditional with the modern to find fresh perspectives.

I’m a firm believer in the importance of technique—developing a solid foundation informed by the advancements of those who came before us. This foundation provides the freedom to explore new ideas, as the process of creation becomes second nature. When you have confidence in your skills, tools, and techniques, you’re no longer in your own way—you’re free to push boundaries and let your creativity flourish.

This is why education has always been a cornerstone of our work at BT. We’ve dedicated significant time and resources to creating high-quality tutorials that help makers refine their skills and master the art of garment making.

NL: Many of your designs focus on timeless aesthetics. How do you decide what trends to incorporate while staying true to your brand identity?
JF: Designing is a deeply intuitive process for me, drawing inspiration from both regional knitwear traditions and modern fashion design. I love exploring the interplay between these two worlds, finding it both fascinating and enjoyable to walk the line between the past and the present in my work.

Traditionalism in design holds a special place for me, as it evokes a sense of nostalgia that is central to what draws me to knitwear. These pieces carry history, groundedness, and authenticity—qualities I strive to bring into my own wardrobe. I want my clothes to resonate with memory and emotion while remaining practical and relevant for the needs of modern life. It’s this balance that makes designing such a meaningful and dynamic endeavor for me.

NL: Your patterns are highly regarded in the knitting community. What is your process for working with designers and creating new patterns?
JF: Thank you! I’ve always felt a strong pull to create knitting patterns that are not only thoughtful and engaging but also clear, intuitive, and easy to follow. Over the years, I’ve spent a lot of time experimenting with how patterns are formatted and communicated, and this focus on clarity has been a central part of my journey leading a design house.

Whether working on my own designs or collaborating with other designers, my approach is always hands-on. I prioritize testing and visualizing the details of a garment to understand how it will be constructed, how it will function, and how makers will experience the process. I pay particular attention to the “fuss factor,” which can be a unique challenge in handmaking, and I’m always striving to strike a balance between ease of construction and high-quality results.

NL: How do you ensure inclusivity and accessibility in your designs, patterns, and materials?
JF: In recent years at BT, we’ve made a concerted effort to prioritize inclusivity and accessibility in our designs. We now work from unisex drafting blocks and offer a wide range of sizes to ensure our patterns are welcoming and adaptable for all makers.