AQL&NAFS: Stylish Afghani Coats Empowering Marginalised Communities

PLEB sat down with Zohal, co-founder of AQL&NAFS to talk about her and her twin sisters’ desire to create authentic, timeless pieces that grew out of frustration with the poor quality of Afghan-inspired coats flooding the market. While at the same time, supporting local Afghani Women to Earn a Sustainable wage in a dire situation.
AQL&NAFS: Stylish Afghani Coat in yellow and gold in front of a mountain scene in Afghanistan. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling.
AQL&NAFS Aisha Handmade Afghan Vest.Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling.
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS

In this article, we delve into the story behind traditional Afghani coats, crafted using time-honoured methods and natural materials. Sustainability, in this context, goes beyond environmental impact to embrace cultural preservation and social responsibility. AQL&NAFS works at the intersection of heritage and ethics, empowering local women and craftspeople in Afghanistan to earn a living wage in a dire socio-economic landscape. This initiative is about more than just fashion—it’s about preserving traditions, supporting communities, and creating lasting, meaningful impact. While the materials used may not align with every perspective on sustainability, this story highlights the broader view of sustainability as a commitment to dignity, fairness, and respect for local customs and livelihoods.

Interview with Zohal, Co-Founder of AQL&NAFS Afghani Coats

Can you tell us about your journey into the fashion industry and what inspired you to create AQL&NAFS?
AQL&NAFS was born from our unique roots in Afghanistan and our upbringing in Germany, which allowed us to bridge two worlds and identities. Fashion has always been a way for us to stay connected to our heritage—our grandfather introduced Western styles to Afghan audiences, and as students, we explored combining leather jackets with an Eastern touch. Our desire to create authentic, timeless pieces grew out of frustration with the poor quality of Afghan-inspired coats flooding the market. We wanted to bring back the true essence of Afghan craftsmanship, blending it with sustainable, modern design.

We want to position ourselves as the leading Afghan coat brand, proudly owned and operated by Afghans.

The idea was born not only out of frustration with the poor quality of Afghan jackets flooding the market but also the cultural homogenisation by many contemporary brands that fail to honour and acknowledge the origins of these garments.

Can you tell us the story behind the name?
The name AQL&NAFS reflects our dual identities. “Aql” means consciousness, shaped by the grounding realities of Afghanistan, while “Nafs” represents desire, inspired by the dream of endless possibilities we found in London. Together, they symbolise a fusion of who we are, where we come from, and what our brand stands for—mindful craftsmanship that bridges heritage and modernity.

How do your cultural roots influence the designs and vision for your brand?
Our cultural roots are the heart of AQL&NAFS. The designs celebrate Afghan craftsmanship, incorporating intricate embroidery and natural materials. These traditional elements are paired with modern aesthetics to create timeless pieces that honour our heritage while remaining relevant to today’s fashion. Our aim is to keep Afghan traditions alive through our designs while offering something new and contemporary.

Zohal and Mursal AQL&NAFS Afghani coats Twin sister Co-Founders
Zohal & Mursal AQL&NAFS Afghani Coats Twin Sister Co-Founders.
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
Amal Cropped Jacket Made From Leather and Mongolian Fur
Amal Cropped Jacket Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
Salma Women's Vest on Model. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Salma Women's Vest. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
Salma Women's Vest, made from suede and Mongolian shearling
Salma Women's Vest. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
Salma Women's Vest. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Salma Women's Vest. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS

What is the process behind creating your signature coats?
The creation of our signature coats is rooted in authenticity and sustainability. We blend traditional Afghan techniques—particularly embroidery done by artisans in Afghanistan—with high-quality materials like Mongolian shearling. The production process is slow and meticulous, with our made-to-order model ensuring minimal waste and maximum attention to detail. Each coat is a reflection of both Afghan craftsmanship and modern design.

Are your coats produced locally, and if so, how does this impact the local community?

Half of our production happens in Afghanistan, where artisans—many of them women working from home—create the intricate embroidery that defines our coats. This work provides vital economic opportunities to communities often excluded from global markets, especially women. In Afghanistan, where women are barred from higher education, we aim to empower them by offering them an opportunity to work and earn an independent income from home. This helps them support themselves and their families, reducing reliance on their husbands and fostering greater independence. Additionally, at the end of each financial year, we donate a percentage of our profits to organisations in Afghanistan that collaborate with local primary schools, helping to improve education and support the next generation.

Our production follows two distinct approaches.

The first approach is handmade in Afghanistan, where artisans—many of them women working from home—create intricate, unique pieces. Each coat takes up to one month to finish, reflecting the dedication and craftsmanship involved. Transporting these pieces into England is a challenging process, but the result is a limited stock of almost one-of-a-kind coats that celebrate Afghan artistry. This approach provides economic opportunities to women in Afghanistan, many of whom are excluded from higher education and traditional employment. By enabling them to earn an independent income from home, we help them gain greater financial and personal autonomy.

The second approach is custom-made production with reliable manufacturers located near the Mongolian border in Northern China where the Mongolian wool comes from. These pieces have a shorter lead time, taking 7–9 days to produce, plus an additional 3–5 days for delivery. This made-to-order system minimizes waste while maintaining high quality.

Through these approaches, we combine the richness of Afghan craftsmanship with the efficiency and sustainability of modern production methods. Additionally, 

Do you incorporate recycled or upcycled fabrics into your designs? If so, how does this align with your brand values?

While our primary focus is on sustainable natural materials like leather and shearling, our made-to-order model helps us minimise waste, aligning with our values of consciousness and environmental responsibility. In Afghanistan, where one of our production approaches is based, we work closely with the local meat industry. Due to widespread poverty, nothing goes to waste—every part of the animal is utilised.

This ethos of resourcefulness sometimes means we must adapt to what the market offers, making the design process more challenging but also more authentic. By embracing this, we create pieces that reflect the resilience and practicality of Afghan culture while ensuring no material is unnecessarily discarded. This approach reinforces our commitment to sustainability and to creating fashion with real purpose.

How do you ensure quality and sustainability in your production process?

Quality and sustainability are at the core of our production process. We achieve this through the careful sourcing of natural materials, close collaboration with skilled artisans, and a commitment to a slow fashion approach.

Our made-to-order process is particularly crucial as we work with real animal materials like leather and shearling. By producing only when orders come in, we minimize waste and ensure that no valuable animal material is discarded unnecessarily. Additionally, our pieces handmade in Afghanistan are crafted from materials sourced from non-industrial animal farming. This not only supports local, traditional farming practices but also aligns with our values of ethical and sustainable production.

Through these practices, we reduce overproduction, lower our environmental footprint, and ensure that every piece is made with care and purpose, reflecting our dedication to conscious fashion.

What challenges have you faced while building a brand that merges craftsmanship, sustainability, and cultural heritage?

One of the main challenges we face is competing with low-quality competitors who, unfortunately, have much larger marketing budgets. These brands often misrepresent Afghan craftsmanship by using cheap materials and poor production methods, which can overshadow the authentic, high-quality pieces we create. It’s a struggle to stand out in a market flooded with mass-produced, inauthentic products, especially when these brands can outspend us on marketing.

As Afghan women, our goal is to be known for creating authentic Afghan coats that not only represent our culture and heritage but also give back to our people. Every sale of our pieces directly contributes to supporting Afghan communities, particularly women, and providing opportunities for economic empowerment. We want our customers to know that by purchasing from AQL&NAFS, they are helping to uplift Afghanistan, ensuring that the country benefits from these beautiful pieces, preserving its traditions, and creating a sustainable future for its artisans.

 
AQL&NAFS Sofia Afghani Coat
AQL&NAFS Sofia Afghani Coat. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
Sahara Afghani Coat
Sahara Afghani Coat. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS Afghani Coat
AQL&NAFS Afghani Coat. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS Liya Afghani Coat
AQL&NAFS Liya Afghani Coat. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
Anita Cropped Jacket. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Anita Cropped Jacket. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS: Stylish Afghani Vest in yellow and gold.
AQL&NAFS Aisha Handmade Afghan Vest. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS: Stylish Afghani Coat in Orange and Brown
AQL&NAFS: Stylish Afghani Coat in Orange and Brown. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS

Are there any particular stories or inspirations behind the fabrics or patterns used in your coats?

Many of the embroidery designs in our coats are inspired by traditional Afghan motifs that have been passed down through generations. These intricate patterns reflect the rich cultural heritage of Afghanistan and the deep connection to its artisans, whose skills and craftsmanship breathe life into every design.

Some of our Afghan-made pieces are a fusion of traditional Afghan elements, such as the velvet vests typically worn by men over traditional Afghan clothing. These vests, once a staple of male attire, are reimagined in our designs, blending heritage with modern fashion. Unfortunately, we’ve seen these items being used by other brands who claim them as Afghan-made, which, after closer investigation, turned out to be untrue.

Working with Afghanistan is incredibly challenging, especially when some brands claim to produce there without truly understanding the country or its culture. Without Afghan roots, cultural knowledge, and the ability to communicate in the local languages, it’s nearly impossible to authentically work within the country. This lack of authenticity is something we feel strongly about, as we are committed to preserving the true spirit of Afghan craftsmanship and ensuring that our work is both respectful and accurate. Our deep connection to Afghanistan ensures that every piece we create is rooted in the country’s heritage and the true artisans behind it.

How do you see AQL&NAFS evolving in the future, and are there plans to expand the range or continue working with specific communities?

We envision expanding our range while staying true to our roots, possibly exploring accessories or other apparel categories in the future. Our core mission remains to empower and preserve Afghan craftsmanship, and we aim to deepen our partnerships with artisan communities, particularly women.

Our dream is to build an autonomous community of women who specifically work with us and thrive within our supportive network. We want to offer them the opportunity to teach their children the importance of education and ensure they can provide everything necessary for their families, fostering independence and long-term security.

Additionally, we aspire to help rebuild the historic Pustin business in Afghanistan, which was once a thriving industry in the 1970s. The economic situation has been extremely difficult since the return of the Taliban, with most foreign businesses and funds leaving the country. Rebuilding small, sustainable businesses in Afghanistan is crucial to the survival of families and communities.

For us, AQL&NAFS is more than just a fashion brand—it is a hope carrier and a lifeline for Afghan families. Every coat is not only a symbol of craftsmanship and cultural heritage but also a vital source of income and stability for the people who create it. Through this work, we aim to support communities in Afghanistan, offering them sustainable, long-term opportunities in the face of a challenging economic environment.

How do you balance modern fashion trends with the traditional aspects of your brand?

We balance modern fashion trends with traditional aspects of our brand by creating timeless designs that honour Afghan craftsmanship while integrating modern silhouettes. Our pieces are inspired by original designs that were once dearly loved by iconic figures like Jimi Hendrix and John Lennon. These vintage-inspired garments have a timeless appeal, and we aim to stay true to the essence of the original designs, giving them a modern twist.

By staying faithful to the core elements of these traditional pieces, we ensure that our coats remain timeless—able to transcend trends and be passed down through generations. This approach allows us to honor our heritage while creating pieces that feel relevant today and will continue to hold value in the future. Through this blend of tradition and modernity, we offer customers enduring, stylish garments that carry both cultural significance and contemporary appeal.

Can you tell us more about how AQL&NAFS supports Afghan families through its work?

AQL&NAFS supports Afghan families by providing fair-paying opportunities, particularly for women who have the chance to work from home. This approach not only sustains traditional craftsmanship but also empowers marginalised communities, offering them a means of economic independence in a challenging environment.

We work closely with several people on the ground in Afghanistan, ensuring that we are involved in every step of the supply chain. We make sure that Afghan women receive a fair percentage of the payment for their work, acknowledging the value they bring to the process. If a piece requires more work than initially expected, we adjust the payment to ensure that they feel respected and compensated fairly for their time and effort.

We understand that the quality of handmade pieces reflects the care and dedication put into them. If a worker is unhappy or feels undervalued, it directly impacts the final product. That’s why we prioritise fair treatment and open communication, ensuring that every artisan is respected, properly compensated, and motivated to produce their best work. Through this commitment to fair practices, we’re not only creating beautiful, high-quality fashion but also making a tangible difference in the lives of Afghan workers and their families.

Anything else you would like to add?

AQL&NAFS is about more than fashion—it’s a movement that bridges cultures, supports sustainability, and empowers communities. Each piece tells a story of heritage, quality, and meaningful impact. We are not just focused on trends or quick profit; this brand is built on the belief that fashion can be a force for good.

Behind each garment, there are real lives connected to the brand. If AQL&NAFS thrives, it will not only continue to provide fair-paying opportunities and empower Afghan artisans, but we’ll also be able to contribute more to sustainable community building and charitable donations. This gives us the ability to improve lives and create long-term, positive change for the families and communities who depend on us. For us, the success of the brand means the success of the people we work with, and that is the heart of what we do.

AQL&NAFS Afghani Sahara Coat - Adult and Child Sizes
AQL&NAFS Afghani Sahara Coat & Child's Vest. Made From Suede and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS Afghani Short Coat & Vest - Adult and Child Sizes.
AQL&NAFS Afghani Short Coat & Vest - Adult and Child Sizes. 30% Cashmere and 70% Wool.
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS Afghani Long Coat & Vest - Adult and Child Sizes.
AQL&NAFS Afghani Long Coat & Vest - Adult and Child Sizes. 30% Cashmere and 70% Wool.
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS Afghani Coat in Black and Child Vest.
AQL&NAFS Afghani Coat in Black and Child Vest. Sheep Leather and Mongolian Shearling
Image Courtesy of AQL&NAFS
AQL&NAFS logo in black Afghani Coats Brand

Website: aql-nafs.com
Co-Founders: Zohal & Mursal
Contact: [email protected]
Location: UK & Germany

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